The train click-clacks along at a steady rhythm, passing through various shades of green. Lush rice fields morph into dense forests, while rivers glisten in the morning sun.
The verdant, tropical landscape is briefly interrupted by colorful sparks of life in the form of towns and villages, where people are going about their morning routine — street vendors serving breakfast to commuters, women carrying fresh produce back from the market and kids gathering in their red and white school uniforms.
This is the view from the Argo Wilis Panoramic, a bright and airy carriage on the Argo Wilis train. Running between the cities of Surabaya in East Java and Bandung in West Java, it’s one of the most scenic and underrated train journeys in all of Southeast Asia.
For some context, Indonesia is the world’s largest archipelago, home to over 17,000 islands. While boats and planes are typically the main way to travel between each island, on Java, trains are by far the best choice.
Stretching 1,064 kilometers from east to west and home to well over half of Indonesia’s population — that’s a whopping 275 million people — it makes sense that the rail network is so extensive and well-used.
What’s unique about Indonesian trains is that rather than having a single carriage dedicated to a certain “class,” each entire train is one of three classes — economy, executive or business.
Whichever class you’re in, they’re impeccably clean and comfortable, with reclinable seats, footrests and air-conditioning — a must in Indonesia’s tropical heat. The trains are also incredibly punctual and affordable.
The journey on the Argo Wilis Panoramic between Surabaya and Bandung takes just under 10 hours and costs Rp 1,200,000 ($77) per person for a one-way ticket in the panoramic carriage, and just Rp 680,000 ($43) on the rest of the executive train.
As well as the Argo Wilis Panoramic, there is also the Argo Parahyangan Panoramic and the Pangandaran Panoramic running back and forth between Jakarta and Bandung.
The panoramic car costs a little more than the rest of the train’s carriages, but the ticket comes with plenty of perks. Even before boarding, passengers can start their journey in style at the stations’ executive lounges, which include complimentary food and drink. On the train, hot drinks, a snack box and a main meal are provided. There’s also free Wi-Fi, although, with such incredible views, there shouldn’t be much time for scrolling.
Purchasing tickets is easy. Much like the rest of Indonesia, the railways have been quick to embrace technology, particularly in the form of mobile apps. The best way to book is either Traveloka or Tiket.com, two of Indonesia’s largest online travel companies. It’s also possible to book tickets on the KAI official website, but the site is only in Indonesian and only accepts Indonesian credit cards. Tickets don’t need to be printed — simply scan them from your phone at the station.
